It is not uncommon to hear common folks acknowledge that the beauty standards of the fashion industry, especially when it comes to the runway, are unrealistic. Models from the BIPOC community have long been overlooked because their features differ from quotidian European models. Designers and photographers have often found the unique features they are looking for in Caucasian models which has been the norm for a long time. However, the past few decades have brought about change. There are more Black Models now walking the runway than they have in the past. But is it mainly due to marketing reasons or is the fashion industry genuinely interested in becoming more inclusive?
While the rise of fashion modeling as a career started in the 1920s, it wasn’t until the 1970s and 1980s that Black models such as Bethann Hardison, Tyra Banks, and Naomi Campbell graced the runway with their presence. In 1988, Yves Saint Laurent threatened to stop advertising in Vogue France if they continued to refuse representation of diversity on their cover. Hence, paved the way for Naomi Campbell on the cover of French Vogue that year as the first Black model. In 2003, several agencies sent out notices stating that no model of color would be considered for Fashion Week. Bethann Hardison with her activism and voice pointed out the exclusion, making it one of the pivotal press conferences to have happened in 2007.
It doesn’t always come down to just looks but also representation on the runway. The Fashion industry might have come a long way but it wasn’t without a fight. After facing several challenges and hurdles, Black models are now representing their community and themselves on the runways of major brands. Fashion houses have realized that their consumer are not just the European market but also the rest of the world and to have global attention as well as maintain a good reputation, inclusivity in advertising has increased. When people see their community represented, they feel seen and acknowledged.