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Lenese Calleea, has built her career around creativity, mentorship, and community – helping Black designers grow in an ever-changing industry. “I grew a business, literally, from my living room into a full-on business.”
Like many creatives, Calleea’s love of design and fashion began at a young age. “I know it’s cliche but . . . I’ve been doing this since I was a kid.” She credits her grandmother, who taught her to sew when she was six, as sparking her lifelong love of fashion. From junior high to high school, she honed her skills by making skirts and pillows and sketching designs. She later earned her BFA in fashion design from Columbia College Chicago. “I always knew I wanted to be a fashion designer.” While pursuing her degree, Calleea gained valuable experience working in retail.
After college, Calleea transitioned into corporate fashion, gaining insight into the business side of the industry. However, her entrepreneurial side remained strong. Since 2012, she has been running her made-to-order fashion business in Chicago. However, she paused to reevaluate her goals and ask herself, “What do I really want to do?” A friend encouraged her to fully commit to teaching others and helping them execute their creative ideas. Inspired by this advice, she outlined the services and classes she could offer and began promoting them on her personal Instagram. She eventually transitioned to a dedicated business account. Due to tariff policies, Calleea faced layoffs during the pre-pandemic period. However, instead of filing for unemployment, she chose to ‘put her all’ into her own business. At 25, she moved to New York to pursue a master’s degree in fashion management and merchandising, further expanding her knowledge. By 2020, her business had seen growth. “We had over 100 plus clients and it just kind of took off from there,” she said.
Calleea’s approach to mentorship is deeply rooted in her educational experiences, industry insights, and empathy. “I definitely have a homegirl approach… I want them to trust me. I want them to know that I am their friend.” Recalling how one of her teachers connected her to her first employer and the strong connection she has with a college professor, Calleea strives to hold space for vulnerable conversations and get to know her mentees personally. “I humanize myself so they don’t hold me on this pedestal; we’re in the same space.” Additionally, managing her brand Vatein while mentoring, has allowed her to lead by example.
This dedication to mentorship inspired Calleea to establish the Black Girlz Designer Club, a nonprofit mentorship program for young creatives. “My strategy… when I’m mentoring young girls is like what do you want to do? What is your goal right now?” Through this program, she encourages young designers to take actionable steps toward their aspirations while balancing creativity with practicality. However, navigating the fashion industry as a Black woman has presented its challenges. Calleea has faced stereotypes like the “aggressive Black woman” stigma or being tokenized, but she remains intentional in her boundary setting, leadership, and creating a professional environment. “I stand on business, I get things done. I like to rise to the occasion. I know what I’m doing. I know what I’m talking about.” Despite these obstacles, she acknowledges progress for Black designers in the industry. “I think we’re moving the needle.” She highlights initiatives such as Black women serving on boards like the CFDA and programs like Macy’s that amplify African American designers.
Calleea also leverages her expertise through her podcast, BlackNFashion, which features a range of voices in the fashion industry. The podcast is not just limited to designers, we’ve had fashion law experts, models, and people in the retail industry, she said. The podcast complements her online and in-person initiatives to connect Black designers and create opportunities for consumers to shop Black-owned brands. It’s a space to vent but also come up with solutions, she said.
Technological advancements and social media have played a role in Calleea’s success and have shaped her approach and advice to emerging Black-owned brands. “You have to go to where the people go.” Social media allows her to connect with her audience and reach clientele. “I record, I record, I record, I record.” Either you learn social media or hire someone who knows it, she said. “As an entrepreneur, you got to keep up or you get left behind.” Her use of social media has led to the success and reach of her brand. Calleea’s creativity and commitment to the community have fueled her success. Her continued strides in the fashion world serve as a reminder that “Black girls make clothes too.”
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